The Quest for the Perfect Homemade French Fry

I like french fries.  There I go messing with my foodie street cred once again.  I know I should say things like, "I fancy grilled ramps" or "I relish sunchoke gratin" but the truth is, I like french fries.  So much so that when a meal includes two side dishes, I'll often order double fries.  When I'm stranded at an airport and attempting to be healthy, I'll forego the sandwich at McDonald's just so I can get a large fries. 

Unfortunately, my love of french fries has manifested as soggy, limp potatoes everytime I've attempted to make french fries at home.  I've still eaten them mind you because I'm picky, not crazy.  Anything even remotely reminiscent of a french fry immediately gets gobbled by yours truly.  But, the quest for the perfect homemade french fry has continued.  I've tried the double frying method, the pan frying, the frying then baking, and the angrily staring at the potato method but nothing has yielded the perfect french fry- crispy on the outside, deliciously moist and mealy on the inside. 

A few days ago, I read about the great french fry experiment at Serious Eats.  A kind soul had actually taken the time to document his various attempts and had posted a recipe promising the perfect french fry.  He had me at perfect.  I started out bright and early because I wanted to eat the french fries the same day.  I know it says to freeze them overnight but I'm still working on the whole patience thing.   I figured in the fry downtime, I could concoct a delicious curry mayo and feel all European while eating my french fries. 

Peel, cut, boil, drain, cool, fry, freeze, fry yet again.  In the interest of full disclosure, these fries take a long time to make.  Theoretically, you could make a giant batch, freeze, and fry them as needed over the next month (or more realistically, next week).  I cannot attest to this since we made the entire batch as soon as they were frozen and attacked them like we hadn't eaten for weeks but it sounds like a good plan, in theory anyhow.  Also, if you don't have a deep fryer, it's a bit of a pain to regulate the oil temperature in the pot before each batch goes in.  But the work is worth it.  The recipe yields a french fry that is, without a doubt, the best homemade french fry I've ever made (and I've made a LOT of homemade french fries).  Golden and perfectly crispy on the outside, tender and potato'y on the inside.  Sprinkle with salt and you've found your new best friend. 

Oh, and one last thing.  You should make your flavored mayo or dipping sauce of choice well ahead of time because once the french fry process starts, you'll be too interested in tasting the fries at each step to make anything else.  What did I do while the fries were freezing, you ask?  Sat and stared at the freezer impatiently.  Oh, and watched The Blind Side (great movie, by the way).  So tell me, what is your french fry dipping sauce of choice?

Thin and Crispy French Fries


2 pounds russet potatoes (about 4 large), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch by 1/4-inch fries (keep potatoes stored in a bowl of water)
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
Kosher salt
2 quarts peanut oil


1. Place potatoes and vinegar in saucepan and add 2 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 10 minutes. Potatoes should be fully tender, but not falling apart. Drain and spread on paper towel-lined rimmed baking sheet. Allow to dry for five minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat oil in 5-quart Dutch oven or large wok over high heat to 400°F. Add 1/3 of fries to oil (oil temperature should drop to around 360°F). Cook for 50 seconds, agitating occasionally with wire mesh spider, then remove to second paper-towel lined rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining potatoes (working in two more batches), allowing oil to return to 400°F after each addition. Allow potatoes to cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Continue with step 3, or for best results, freeze potatoes at least over night, or up to 2 months.

Note: Potatoes can be frozen after step 2. To freeze potatoes, place entire sheet tray in freezer. After fully frozen, place in Ziploc bags, press out air, and freeze for up to 2 months. If cooking straight from frozen, do not cook more than 1/4 batch at a time unless you have a large vessel for deep frying, as oil temperature will drop too precipitously.

3. Return oil to 400°F over high heat. Fry half of potatoes until crisp and light golden brown, about 3 1/2 minutes, adjusting heat to maintain at around 360°F. Drain in a bowl lined with paper towels and season immediately with kosher salt. Cooked fries can be kept hot and crisp on a wire rack set on a sheet tray in a 200°F oven while second batch is cooked. Serve immediately.


From Serious Eats